5 Biggest Mistakes New Chicken Keepers Make (And How to Avoid Them)

5 Biggest Mistakes New Chicken Keepers Make featured image

Raising backyard chickens is incredibly rewarding, but it also comes with a steep learning curve—especially when you’re just getting started. Over the years, I’ve seen a lot of beginners make the same well-intentioned mistakes, and many of them can be easily avoided with a little guidance.

Whether you’re in Illinois like me or anywhere else in the world, here are the most common chicken-keeping myths and mistakes I see people making—and what to do instead.

Mistake #1: Thinking You Need a Rooster for Eggs

Let’s start with one of the biggest myths out there: the idea that you need a rooster in order for your hens to lay eggs.

Nope. Not true. Not even a little bit.

Hens lay eggs on a regular cycle whether there’s a rooster around or not. It’s simply external ovulation—just like women ovulate whether or not there’s a man in the house, hens lay eggs whether or not there’s a rooster strutting around the yard.

The only difference? No rooster means the eggs won’t be fertilized, so you can’t hatch them. But if you’re just collecting eggs for eating? You’re good to go without a single crow in your flock.

In fact, many backyard chicken keepers prefer not to have a rooster. They can be noisy, aggressive, and hard on hens if the flock isn’t large enough. Unless you’re specifically trying to hatch chicks, a rooster is totally optional.

row of eggs

Mistake #2: Trusting Your Dog (Or Anyone’s Dog)

When it comes to protecting chickens from predators, most people immediately think of foxes, hawks, raccoons, or coyotes. But the number one predator people don’t think about? Domestic dogs.

And sadly, it’s often their own dog.

Even the sweetest family pet can turn deadly when chickens are involved. It’s not about aggression—it’s instinct. Dogs are predators. Chickens run. That combination often ends in tragedy. I’ve heard too many stories of chickens being chased, injured, or killed right in front of their shocked owners, all because they assumed their dog “wouldn’t hurt a fly.”

Whether it’s a playful Labrador or a curious shepherd, dogs should never be left unsupervised with chickens unless they’ve been very carefully trained and proven trustworthy. The same goes for neighborhood dogs—many a chicken has met its end thanks to someone else’s loose pup.

If you’re raising chickens, secure fencing and predator-proof runs are non-negotiable. And always supervise interactions between dogs and your flock until you’re absolutely sure it’s safe.

Sovalye_Anatolian-Dog

Mistake #3: Overcrowding the Coop

Another super common issue? Trying to fit too many chickens in too little space.

It’s easy to get carried away when you’re picking out chicks—especially when every breed looks adorable and promises high egg production. But chickens need room to live comfortably. When space is too tight, you’ll run into a host of problems: aggression, feather-picking, stress, and even illness.

As a general rule of thumb, aim for at least 4 square feet of coop space per bird, and 10 square feet of outdoor run space (more if they won’t be free-ranging). Overcrowding not only affects their quality of life, but can also lower egg production and lead to injuries from fighting.

Not sure how much space your flock needs or how to design your setup? Check out these helpful guides on building the right chicken coop and chicken house basics.

Chicken-Coop-or-Hen-House-at-The-Oregon-Garden

Mistake #4: Forgetting About Biosecurity

New chicken keepers often underestimate how quickly disease can spread in a flock.

Bringing home birds from a swap meet or accepting chickens from a friend without quarantining them first? Risky.

Letting wild birds share the feeder? Also risky. Even walking from one coop to another without changing shoes can spread illness.

To protect your flock:

  • Buy only day-old chicks from certified disease-free hatcheries.
  • If you must buy older chickens, quarantine new birds for at least 30 days.
  • Keep feeders and waterers clean and protected from wild birds.
  • Wash your hands and change shoes if you’re visiting someone else’s flock.

It doesn’t take much effort to prevent disease—but once it’s in your flock, it’s a whole lot harder to manage.

Mistake #5: Winterizing the Coop the Wrong Way

Let’s talk winter—because here in Illinois, it gets cold. Understandably, new chicken keepers want to keep their flock warm, so they start doing things that seem like a good idea… but actually put their birds at risk.

The biggest winter mistake? Heating and insulating the coop.

This might sound shocking, but chickens don’t need a heated coop. In fact, heating and insulation often do more harm than good. Here’s why:

Chickens generate heat and moisture through breathing and droppings. When you seal up a coop with insulation and heating, you trap all that moisture inside. That leads to high humidity, which creates the perfect breeding ground for respiratory illnesses—and makes frostbite more likely, not less.

Frostbite doesn’t come from cold alone. It comes from cold plus moisture. So when your coop is warm and humid, the chickens are more likely to get frostbite than they would in a well-ventilated, unheated coop.

The fix? Do NOT insulate your coop. DO ensure excellent ventilation. Allow moist air to rise and escape through vents near the ceiling while keeping the roosting area dry and free of drafts. Chickens can handle cold—they just need to be dry and out of the wind.

And as tempting as it is, please don’t put sweaters on your chickens. Their feathers are built-in insulation. Down feathers (yes, the same kind used in jackets and comforters) trap heat against their bodies. A chicken’s natural coat is more efficient than anything we could put on them. Sweaters flatten those feathers, making it harder for the bird to stay warm—and trapping moisture that can make things worse.

Want more cold-weather tips? Here’s a complete guide to keeping chickens healthy in winter.

Chicken House in Winter

Bonus Tip: Choosing Cold-Hardy Breeds

If you’re in a cold climate and want to avoid frostbite, think about breed selection. Chickens with large combs are more prone to frostbite than those with smaller, flatter combs.

Look for breeds with rose combs, which sit close to the head and are less exposed. The Wyandotte is a great example—they were developed in Wisconsin, after all, and are built to handle harsh winters. Hardy, reliable, and beautiful, they’re a smart pick for northern keepers.

Need help choosing? Here’s a list of chicken breeds that includes cold-hardy options perfect for chilly climates.

Final Thoughts

Raising chickens is full of surprises, and every flock teaches you something new. But many of the biggest mistakes I see—from heating coops to assuming a rooster is required—come from a good place. People want to care for their birds. They want to do the right thing.

The trick is understanding what chickens actually need—not what we think they need.

Let them be chickens. Give them space, ventilation, protection from predators, and a little trust in their natural instincts—and you’ll be amazed how well they thrive.

Click here to visit our Amazon store, which includes lists of things chickens need, as well as our favorite chicken books! (As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Biggest Mistakes New Chicken Keepers Make
Biggest Mistakes New Chicken Keepers Make
Biggest Mistakes New Chicken Keepers Make

Leave a Comment

Join me online